#Fix sks stock crack cracked#
#Fix sks stock crack crack#

There is a small chip on the firing pin opposite the extractor. The firing pin needed to be pulled and all that cleaned inside there along with pulling the extractor. I stuck a bullet in the front end and left about 1/8-3/16' of the bullet forward of the case. If I cared alot about accuracy, I'd say it needs to be re-crowned or counter bored. In either case make sure you clamp the wood tightly.ДЇor the amount of work involved in attempting to repair a Stock with this type of damage, I would spring for a used replacement Stock for less than $20.Д«ore is shiny. HavenвЂ™t used it myself but others report good results. Home Depo carries something called Gorilla Glue. If you can accomplish this I wood recommend a good CabinetMakers Wood Glue. No matter the length of soaking, and drying the wood inside the crack, it seems removing all the oil to be impossibility.

#Fix sks stock crack crack#

The crack appears to traverse the entire stock, caused by the rear of the Receiver impacting the top edge of the milling cut. Looking at the crack in your SKS it appears to be in the worst possible spot for an attempted repair.

#Fix sks stock crack cracked#

Once stripped if all the metal parts are in good condition and work properly, itвЂ™s time to deal with that cracked Stock. The Gas Tube is a tight fit even when clean, I would suggest an extra soaking in this area, check the plunger and make sure it moves freely and the lever is in the open position, WD40 sometimes help freeing a stuck tube. Gasoline would not be one of my choices, just too damm dangerous and could damage any remaining finish on the metal, not to mention the finish on you and your home. All Solvents should be used outside, Charcoal Lighter is one of my favorites, inexpensive and not damaging to any of the Bluing/Finishing that may be left. after 40 years or so, some of that stuff dries like concrete. Yellowsled, Bro it's time to renew that C&R, prices are coming back down and you need to go broke like the rest of us.ДЄll of the Solvents mentioned work well with a wide variety of packing grease/Cosmoline etc. If you do decide to have a go at it, practice on scrap pieces first.Click to expand.I rechecked the Russian and Yugo I have and did not see a Brad in that area, but again there are so many variants out there some may but I would be at a loss for their purpose? This might be a job for a professional, unless youвЂ™ve had previous experience. Having your repair end up being both invisible and strong means youвЂ™ll have to have clean joints and use great skill as a craftsperson. Opening and cleaning those joints is a must. That said, whatever glue you use, it will only stick or bond to the surface it touches So, to get a perfect bond, youвЂ™ll need a perfect surface. They are not вЂњordinaryвЂќ epoxies, and they are quite expensive. You can find specialty epoxies made for just your kind of troubles available from gunsmith suppliers.

Tim Inman: Epoxy is the only good answer for you.

Once the stock is mended and back to working condition, youвЂ™ll probably never look back and regret the cost of getting it done by a pro. I think thatвЂ™s especially true if you want to use this firearm again. Sometimes experience should prevail to get something done right, and this could well be one of those times. NancyД¬hris Marshall: If that rifle has sentimental value, IвЂ™d find a gunsmith and forego the DIY repair effort. It is a thick type gloss finished stock: I would like to just glue it up with an invisible and very strong glue, a glue that can handle repeated recoil action. I will not take the stock off until I know the best glue to use. I suspect it will part and maybe separate the stock into two pieces when the stock is removed. I do not know the extent of the crack, but I do know it goes completely through the stock. I have a beautiful Sako Wood gun stock (rifle stock) that has a crack that will require gluing and clamping.